Powered by Bravenet Bravenet Blog

Tag Board

DWAN LAVA: DWAN LAVADINERO EN UAAACAPULCO CANCUN1996-+2000LAVA DINEROCONSAÑAPEDERASTARUBEN DELCASA HOGARNIÑOCALETA
wow gold: hello,anybody home?nice journal website!
Antony James: HiI am well into my camping and survival, I am trying to get on one of ray mears' courses (easier said than done).I have my own forum, just setup provided by the peoples forum, if anyone wants to chat about the outdoors, etc then come to me forum.http://peoplesforumonline.org/ForumX
Emma: Thank you!
Maggie: Great work!
Gabriel: Nice site!
Troy: Good design!
Kathy: Well done!
Hayden: Good design!
Debbie: Thank you!
Cory: Good design!
Sally: Nice site!
Robert: Great work!
Patty: Great work!
Adam: Nice site!
Brad: Thank you!
Rebecca: Good design!
Tonya: Thank you!
Barbara: Nice site!
Robert: Thank you!
Keith: Good design!
Ian: Thank you!
Robert: Well done!
Angie: Great work!
Jody: Great work!
Vincent: Great work!
Dean: Well done!
Sherry: Good design!
Rebecca: Great work!
Phyllis: Well done!
Zack: Great work!
Karen: Well done!
Ida: Great work!
Ida: Great work!
Angie: Nice site!
Jane: Nice site!
Karen: Well done!
Dennis: Thank you!
Britney: Nice site!
Phillip: Good design!
Don: Well done!
Raymond: Well done!
Jack: Great work!
Dixie: Thank you!
Ron: Great work!
Ruth: Great work!
Gina: Good design!
Cory: Thank you!
Patrick: Nice site!
Dawn: Great work!
Ivan: Well done!

Please type in the four characters shown in the black box.

Friday, December 23rd 2005

4:46 AM

DEER STAND INJURIES

Deer Stand Injuries


Deer stand injuries are potentially some of the more serious outdoor injuries that can occur. Sadly enough, 99% of these can be avoided. No deer stand injury should occur. Most of these injuries occur with poor judgment. Possible reasons for deer stand injuries: The deer stand is not well made, it is not secure, it is too high, or most commonly, the individual does not wear a safety harness. There are many types of safety harnesses that are used. The actual harness that attaches to the chest has two straps to it is the most efficient and safe. Survive Outdoors cannot recommend the one-strap harness that goes around the top of the chest, although this is better than no harness at all. We will outline the reasons for this in the paragraphs to follow.

When one falls out of a deer stand and has a harness on, one has to first think of the anatomy and what could become injured. The harness first should be worn around the chest, under both armpits. When you fall out of the stand, the harness will catch you and cause the least amount of injury to your body. I have seen hunters secure harnesses around the abdomen or belly. This is potentially dangerous. When falling, the sudden jolt can easily rupture a spleen or lacerate a liver with a rib fracture. Subsequently it is important to wear all harnesses up high and under your armpits at all times.

There is no need for any deer stand to be higher than 20 feet in a tree. Outdoors, etc has heard of and read articles of deer hunters who have put tree stands 40-50 feet in the air. They feel that they are better able to kill a deer because they are out of the deer's view. This is ludicrous and should not be done. The higher you go, the greater chance of dying if falling. If you don't die, you risk serious injury, which will decrease your chances of further hunting down the road.

In reviewing the literature, I will briefly outline an abstract by George Hertner, M.D. around this issue. He reviewed the type of injuries that resulted from falls out of tree stands. The case histories of 15 individuals who fell out of tree stands during two hunting seasons were reviewed. 14 of these individuals were male, age ranging from 16 to 72 years of age, with a mean age of 48. The most common month of injury was November, and the distance fallen averaged between 9-20 feet, with an average of 16.7 feet. Four of these individuals lost consciousness. Two had unknown loss of consciousness, and firearm discharge contributed to injuries in only one case. Alcohol was known to contribute in only one of the cases. 12 of these individuals were transported to the hospital. Types of injures: Three incurred head injuries, 8 spine injuries, 5 upper back and 5 upper extremities, 2 lower extremities and one abdominal injury. Hospitalizations ranged from one-half a day to 32 days. 5 of the patients required intensive care unit admission ranging from 1-18 days. There were no deaths. However there were 9 pre-hospital deaths.

Higher education is key. What is important is for hunters to carry this on to the next generation. Teach children the necessity and importance of wearing a harness, so they can carry this on for generations to come, to increase safety in future generations. Again, the SAM splint would be very useful to keep in the vehicle, or have a hunting partner have one in his pack, as it would be very useful in the event someone falls out of a tree stand. The hunting partner would then be able to splint the area.

What other important items should a hunter hunting in a deer stand have in his pack in the unlikely event that he falls out? In addition to the SAM splint above, a whistle is very important if you do not have another method of communication such as a walky-talky or radio system. Even with a communication system such as this, you cannot be totally secure that it will not break, or that the batteries won't run down when out in the wilderness. Subsequently, a whistle is of the utmost importance, especially when trying to alert your hunting partners or another individual, specifically rescue personnel in the event they come looking for you. A fire starter such as a metal match is also important to have with you, especially when hunting by yourself. If you are hunting with a partner, you have a greater chance of being found quickly. However if you are by yourself in a deer stand and you get injured, you may not have help for quite awhile. It will most likely be quite cold, so the ability to start a fire is very important.

1 Comment(s) / Post Comment

Wednesday, June 29th 2005

4:54 AM

CAMPING HIKING & HUNTING TIPS

This is just a small collection of Camping and Hiking tips that may save you time, money, and aggravation.

  •  Do you have tents, tarps, ponchos or other fabrics that need to be waterproofed? Are you sick of spending big bucks on those silicone sprays that just wear off and need retreatment every year or two? Try using Thompson's Water Seal (yup, the same stuff you use to waterproof the deck!). You can paint it on, spray it on, or dip items in it, and it is a hell of a lot cheaper! Test a small area first, and if you are okay with it, go ahead and dip or coat the item.

 

  •  Do you do a lot of family or group camping? Ever have a rainy weekend turned your campout into a mudfest? There's a solution. Spend about $30 on a military surplus parachute. Suspend the chute over your site like a huge umbrella. The chutes are not waterproof, but if they are hung with sufficient pitch, they will shed water (just like a tent, do not touch the inside, or you will start a drip. These can also be coated with Thompson's Water Seal as mentioned above. They are typically 30-40 feet in diameter, and will therefore cover an entire campsite, tents and all.

 

  • Backpackers everywhere have been the beneficiaries of many advances in technology... cool gear and gizmo's abound these days! The primary advances have come in the area of weight and size reductions due to leaps and bounds in materials technology. One of the best examples is the sleeping bags offered by Snugpak. Their 2 and 3 season bags compress down to the size of a loaf of bread, and weigh about 1.5 lbs. The picture below is of my Snugpak Travelpak 650 shown next to a can of Coke for size comparison. This is a great bag for Spring, Summer, and some Fall camping (2-3 Season). One could fit this bag, a Bivy Shelter or poncho, some food, a water filtering canteen and a couple extra clothing layers in a day pack. At these size and weight parameters, a hiker has no excuse for being unprepared on the trail when weather rolls in.

 

  • The other area where technology has made great advances is in that of backpacking water filters. These save you from having to carry many gallons of water with you on camping and hiking trips. There are many nice makes and models out there, so I will not drop any one name as far as a brand. There are also Water purifying bottles, straws, etc for emergency use. There really is NO excuse for not having one or more of these in your possession when tromping into the wild.

 

  • A Gerber Tool is quite a commodity in the woods. Probably the best use when camping (that no other pocket knife can really claim) is that you can use the pliers to move hot cans, canteen cups, and other items in and out of the fire.

 

  • Where you put your campsite or shelter is very important. Just as in the real estate business... Location, location, location!  When building a shelter or site in cold weather, it is recommended that it should not be located in a valley or on a hilltop. It should be built 50 to 100 feet above the valley floor. This is because the cold settles down into the valleys, making the valleys 20 or more degrees colder. The hilltops are more susceptible to wind which will chill you all the more. Locate a shelter on the south side of a hill as the ground gets a lot of sun throughout the day and will be warmer both during the day, and at night as the accumulated heat is radiated from the ground.

  • NOTE: The reverse of this may apply in hot temperatures, ie: build shelters in valleys, and on North side of hills.

  • NOTE: Water is EXTREMELY important, so be careful to locate your shelter or site near enough that it is easy to get at!

1 Comment(s) / Post Comment

Wednesday, June 29th 2005

4:51 AM

FIRE SKILLS

Fire is one of the most basic skills to have, yet it is quite amazing how many people can't start a fire without dry wood and fuel at hand. I won't go into minute detail on this subject, as there are plenty of sites out there that already do. This site is made primarily for those who already have some modicum of outdoor skills. Fire is a skill that should be practiced by anyone who spends time away from civilization. Anyone can practice making fire in their backyard. Fire is the means to warmth, water purification, cooking food, and a general sense of well being. The following tips will help you to start fires in less than ideal conditions with limited tools (I use flint and steel).

To build your typical campfire, you'll need three types of fuel . These are Tinder, kindling, and logs. The first rule of fire making is to always have twice as much of each as you think you'll need. Have these ready before you ever strike a match. Whereas the logs and kindling are typically just little sticks and big sticks arranged in a nice tepee or log cabin arrangement, I will not waste time comparing the burn rates of different types, etc. In a survival situation, the hard part is getting the first flame to take to your tinder. Once you have a nice little pile of tinder material burning, it's relatively easy to get the rest of the fire going, so I will not waste time explaining it. I will focus on some tinder sources and tips.

Know your tinder sources!  There are a multitude of mosses, grasses, and other thin and fibery materials that can be easily ignited. A key to these is that they need to be dry. When walking along in the woods, I collect wispy looking materials, and put them in my shirt pocket (body heat dries them out in a hurry). Some other great tinder that will light in just about any conditions are as follows

  • Cat-o-Nine Tails. The large bulb at the top of this plant has enough "fluff" to start a LOT of fires.
  • The large, black, lumpy growths on the sides of birch trees is a type of fungus that burns VERY well. Lop or break off a clump. It is orange to brownish on the inside. This can be ignited with a spark and forms a very nice coal. This material can also be used to carry fire from place to place. This stuff may be orange, but it's gold to me!
  • Low lying, gnarly pine shrubs and trees (common in sandy soils) build up amazing amounts of sap. The wood becomes infused with it and is VERY flammable. Dead branches on these fill with sap to seal them off (also makes them waterproof). Use these. A small piece can be used to start many fires. Shavings from this type of wood will ignite with nothing but a good spark. A little goes a long way. If you find a piece of this, chalk it amongst your assets, and find a pocket for it.
  • Pocket Lint... No Kidding... if you knew how flammable this stuff really was, you'd be carrying a fire extinguisher around with you. It only takes a spark. Once I learned this, I became fanatical about cleaning the lint screen in my dryer !!
1 Comment(s) / Post Comment

Monday, June 20th 2005

7:21 AM

CHIGGGERS

A chigger is a very tiny mite. They cause intense itching. Chiggers actually feed on skin cells. Severe itching usually occurs in less than 6 hours, followed by a small, raised bump approximately 2-3 mm. in diameter. However, an allergic reaction may ensue, and there may be a small wheal, which sometimes is worsened with itching. Chigger bites are commonly seen where the skin is in contact with grass or weeds. It is commonly seen underneath socks or along belt lines.

Treatment: Topical Cortisone creams can be very helpful to reduce the itching. Chigger mites frequently lay eggs underneath the skin, and Lindane (Kwell), which is also used for head lice, can be very effective, as well as asking your healthcare provider for Permethrin (Elimite). These medications usually take care of the chiggers fairly quickly.

6 Comment(s) / Post Comment

Monday, June 20th 2005

7:18 AM

ICE FISHING SAFETY

Many outdoorsmen are increasing their time in the field by participating in the sport of ice fishing. This allows individuals to get out year round. However, as with any outdoor excursion, ice fishing is not without risk. Employ common sense and good judgment! Protective gear is available to help prevent frostbite. Outdoors apparel specifically made for frigid conditions is available in sporting goods stores. Innovative socks and boots that help prevent frostbite if used properly are good investments. Some things to remember:

  1. Never wear cotton socks as a first layer. Cotton absorbs moisture and increases the risk of frostbite. Your first sock layer should be made of nylon or rayon. Next, cotton may be used but wool is preferred. Wool pulls moisture away from the feet, thus your skin stays drier. Many lightweight boots now come with a layer of Thinsulate, which come in levels of 1,000 to 1,500. Inch for inch, there is no other insulation that keeps you warmer. Thinsulate insulation provides twice the warmth of other synthetic insulation, and one and one-half times the warmth of down. Nothing keeps you warmer.
  2. When otherwise properly garbed, 75%-80% of all heat loss from the body occurs from an uncovered head. Subsequently, a warm hat that covers the ears is extremely beneficial in maintaining body heat. Survive Outdoors endorses Head Soks. Made of a variety of materials including wool, the Head Sok is designed to be pulled down over the head and tucked in at the neck, thereby reducing heat loss from the neck area. The Head Sok, accompanied with a hat, provides the necessary warmth for your head.
  3. Mittens are much warmer than gloves. Most outdoorsmen know this by now. Mittens decrease the chance of frostbitten fingers. Somewhat cumbersome when working with rods, mittens are available with removable fingers for the short time you may need fine motor skills.

Is the ice thick enough?

At what thickness is ice considered safe is a common debate amongst outdoorsmen. General rules of thumb:

  1. Two inches of solid ice is permissible for one person on foot, three inches for a group in single file;
  2. A snowmobile is safe on three inches;
  3. A single passenger automobile seven inches;
  4. A 2-1/2 ton truck eight inches;
  5. A 3-1/2 ton truck nine inches;
  6. A 7-8 ton truck ten inches.

Other factors to consider:

  1. Ice structure, and outdoor temperature. For example, an ice sheet forms on water, but if the water level drops after the initial ice sheet forms, it may be left unsupported near the shore. This occurrence is detectable by hearing a hollow sound when probing with an ice chisel. This is NOT a safe area to fish.
  2. It is also important to note that when the temperature stays above freezing greater than 24 hours, ice begins to lose strength. At that point, the rules of thumb given above will no longer represent safe conditions.
  3. Distinguish between ice and snow. Snow on top of ice may obscure the actual thickness of the ice.

As stated in previous articles, if you have a gut feeling or concern that the ice might be too thin, STAY OFF THE ICE. Your desire to ice fish is not worth the risk of ice fishing on possibly dangerous ice. Use common sense and good judgment. Good luck ice fishing!

2 Comment(s) / Post Comment

Friday, June 3rd 2005

8:46 AM

How To Make Your Own Hand Cream

Put beeswax, about 1/2 pound into a double boiler and let it melt. Add olive oil, I use about 1 1/2 cup to start and reheat. Now, add some essential oils for smell if you want to. Let this cool and check to see if its to hard. If it is, reheat it and add more olive oil. Pour into a jar and put a lid on it. We milk all year around. Goats, by hand and our skin doesn't chap or peel. It's cheap and easy to make.
0 Comment(s) / Post Comment

Friday, June 3rd 2005

8:45 AM

Goat's Milk Soap

Step One ... Very Important!

Step one is to get your oils ready and set aside since this is a very quick way of making 100% goat milk soap, even easier than using half water, half goat milk ... Use your own favorite soap recipe. You can add goat milk for water straight across but I drop a few ounces from the goat milk compared to what the water would be. My water amount is 25 oz., I use 23 oz. of goat milk but I've successfully used 25 also. Since I'm fortunate to have access to Nubian goat milk with a high butterfat content, I usually drop my super-fatting to around 3-4%.

Step Two

OK, get your favorite recipe out and determine the quantity of goat milk you want to use, pour it in a ziplock and lay it flat in the freezer to totally freeze solid. Flat is important. When that's done (I usually do a bunch at once) take out the frozen 'frisbee' of goat milk, hit it on a hard surface until it breaks up in or hit it with a hammer or however you choose to break it into chunks that will fit into your container. (I drop the bag flat on cement a few times and the pieces seem to shatter nicely and about the right size.) Fairly small pieces but not too small. 2-3' pieces work well. I use one of those large gallon size sun tea/olive jars, but you can use a stainless steel bowl or even a plastic pitcher. Pour all the frozen pieces in the jar, which is sitting in your sink, then just measure the lye and dump it all in at once. YES, at once ... Take the nylon (or wooden) spoon and stir all the lye and milk chunks to coat them all.
Then you keep moving the pieces around with a nylon spoon and they will slowly dissolve and you will absolutely not burn the milk and in fact, it will probably be cool when the milk is completely dissolved. DO NOT warm it, use it as is in oils that have cooled. If you decide to warm it, be aware that it WILL turn yellow or lt. orange. If that's okay with you, go ahead. The melting time is probably less than ten minutes, certainly no more, so don't leave and be ready to make soap. IF you let it sit, it continue to warm and become yellow ... I use it as soon as it's melted, even though it's cool.

Note; You can compensate for the coolness of the milk by making the oils a little bit warmer, perhaps around 110-115 degrees if the low milk temp bothers you but I don't. I use it as is.

Step Three

Since your oils are all ready, you put the dissolved goat milk in them right away and continue with normal soap-making process. This method keeps your soap nice and light colored. I know, the milk is cooler than it should traditionally be but trust me, it really works. I've made many, many batches of soap this way. Another plus is, it has little to none of the unpleasant smell that goat milk soap can have for a few days and if it does, it dissipates quickly. One thing is, you DO add just a bit more fragrance with goat milk soap than lye water soap but that's the same no matter how you make goat milk soap.

1 Comment(s) / Post Comment

Friday, June 3rd 2005

8:44 AM

HAND LOTION

1/8 cup any type oil {I like olive oil} 1 cup goats milk or cows milk
In a bowl, combine ings. and mix well, you can keep it in the fridge, or you can add 1/8 teaspoon vinegar or ascorbic acid or citric acid, to preserve it.
You can also make hand lotion with 1/4 cup mineral oil 1/4 olive oil 1/2 tsp. cod-liver oil 1 Tsp.lecitin powder 1 tsp. plain unflavored gelatin
No harsh chemicles, simply place oils and lecthin powder in a blender, You can get most of the products at a health food store or pharmacy, mix gelatin in 1/8 cup of cold water, add 1/2 cup boiling water and let set until cool, add all ings. to blender and blend until smooth, this helps restore your rough dry skin with it's own natural oils.

3 Comment(s) / Post Comment

Thursday, June 2nd 2005

12:38 PM

DEHYDRATION

Introduction
Dehydration and heat-related illness has long been a common cause of mortality in outdoor situations. In 1967, during the Israeli-Egyptian war, 20,000 Egyptians died due to dehydration. However, there were minimal deaths of Israelis. This was partly due to the fact that the Israelis were prepared. They each had 5 gallons of water per day to drink, to replenish their fluid supply.

Dehydration Symptoms
Dehydration is defined as sweat, urine or respiratory water loss. It results from the voluntary restriction of intake of water. Thirst is not a good indicator for when to replace water. This has been seen in marathon runners who are accustomed to running long distances and have conditioned themselves thusly so. When endorphins take over, the thirst mechanism is disregarded. So being thirsty is not a good indicator for how dehydrated one might be. Dehydration also decreases work performance.

"It is assumed that the total body water (TBW) in the idealized 70-kg person is 42 L (about 60% of body mass), and that two thirds of this water (28 L) is intracellular and one third is extracellular (3.5 L of plasma and 10.5 L of interstitial fluid). By calculation, the intravascular or PV is equivalent to one twelfth of the total body water (42 L TBW/12 = 3.5 L PV). It is further assumed that there is no salt loss. Therefore TBW at the thirst threshold, compared with euhydration, is calculated by:

Normal TBW x normal plasma = thirst TBW x thirst plasma osm

42 L x 280 mOsm/kg = ? L x 295 mOsm/kg

11,760 mOsm/295 mOsm/kg = 39.9 L

That is, TBW at the thirst threshold is 39.9 L.

Therefore the actual water loss to reach threshold is 42 L - 39.9 L = 2.1 L, which represents nearly 3% of body weight ([2.1 kg/70 kg] x 100). By exercising in the heat for only about 2 hours, one can incur an additional water loss of 2.1 L (= 4.2 L total), which then results in a water deficit equivalent to 6% of body mass. This 6% TBW deficit decrements performance and increases risk of heat illness." (Page 260, 261 Wilderness Medicine, Paul Auerbach, M.D.)

You can lose 2% of your body weight before thirst is initiated, which may get worse as the severity of dehydration increases. With 4%-6% body water loss, you are anorexic, impatient and you have symptoms of headache. With 10% loss, you have dizziness and cyanosis. You also become light-headed and have syncopal episodes. With 12% loss, you have difficulty swallowing and you require assistance in re-hydration. 15%-25% water loss is lethal.

Dehydration produces a decrease in ability to stay alert. Your power can decrease 6% and time performance by 12% in the heat. Sweat rates can be as high as 1-1/2 liters per hour, or roughly 15 liters a day. Water requirements are not only imperative in the heat, but they are imperative in the cold. They are also higher than most people believe. At high altitudes, water requirements can be very similar to those in the desert. Some very rough estimates for water replacements in the cold: Approximately 2 quarts per day, severe cold with heavy exercise, up to 2 gallons. Altitudes above 10,000 feet, definitely more than 2 gallons. Dr. Murray Hamlet postulates that one should drink a little all the time, a lot at meals and at bedtime. You want to be able to urinate pale yellow. If you can't remember the last time you urinated, you are significantly dehydrated. Drink by your watch in hot environments. Forced drinking in the absence of thirst saves lives in the heat.

There can also be a cumulative effect of dehydration and heat exhaustion which can occur over days, and is not recognized, especially in athletics. This is commonly seen during the month of August when football players train. The cumulative effect is usually not taken into consideration.

Heat Acclimation
We must entertain the idea of heat acclimation. What is heat acclimation? The body can acclimate to a certain temperature over a given period of time, where you can decrease your chances of heat stroke and heat exhaustion. Working at 50% of your maximum energy, 3 hours a day for approximately 9-12 days, you can reach heat acclimation. Subsequently, certain construction workers and athletics have definitely acclimated their bodies to the point where they can decrease their chances of heat stroke and heat injury.

The first organ to be hurt by heat stroke/exhaustion is the liver. Liver enzymes will tell us whether or not this individual is suffering from stroke vs. exhaustion for up to 24 hours after the incident.

Survival Situation
Dehydration and heat exhaustion and stroke can be very dangerous. In the outdoors, it cannot be stressed enough: If you cannot get to a clean water supply, GO AHEAD AND DRINK THE WATER. It is best to re-hydrate yourself, whether it is from creek, stream or lake. Your survival might depend on it. When you are then found and get back to a location where you can be treated, the healthcare professionals can treat your symptoms at that point in time. For example, Giardia Lambia, which is the very common organism that causes diarrhea, the incubation for Giardia is approximately 3 weeks. You will be found most likely in less time than that, and you are not going to suffer any symptoms until you get back. So, hydration is key. Please drink the water if you are in a situation that warrants that.

0 Comment(s) / Post Comment

Thursday, June 2nd 2005

12:37 PM

SCORPIONS

Scorpions are very commonly found in west and southwestern United States. There have been reported in Arkansas, extreme southern Illinois, and Kentucky. ALL North American scorpions are venomous, but their bites are not lethal. The lethality comes from an allergic reaction, very similar to bee stings. The scorpion sting usually results in localized pain at the sting site. There is some swelling, increased warmth and redness around the sting site and some tingling distal or away from the sting site. In severe allergic reactions, individuals may have increased breathing, rapid heartbeat, and may pass out. Deaths have been reported in children less than ten years of age. However this is due to hypersensitive or allergic reactions, similar to bee stings.

Word of Caution
Pet stores are bringing in exotic scorpions from the Middle East. These are highly poisonous, and their bites may be lethal. These are NOT like the North American scorpions. We are seeing more and more imported exotic species such as snakes, scorpions and spiders. Subsequently, the medical community must be informed regarding symptomatology of various bites and stings, some of which may present a bizarre appearance.

2 Comment(s) / Post Comment

Wednesday, June 1st 2005

9:06 AM

DESERT SAFETY TIPS

Carry Plenty of Water

There are no dependable sources of water in the desert regions. One gallon of water per person, per day is the absolute minimum that should be carried. When planning a hike, remember that water weighs approximately 8 pounds per gallon. When the water is half gone, it is time to turn back. Don't forget extra water for your vehicle. DO NOT RATION YOUR WATER. It will only do you good if you drink it.

Plan Your Trip Carefully

Always tell someone where you are going and when you will return. Stick with your itinerary, and let them know when you return. Do not travel in the desert backcountry without taking along appropriate maps such as USGS topographic maps, which show land contours and specific features. Learn how to use a topographic map and a compass before you hike cross-country or on trails that are not well defined. It is easy to become disoriented in the desert where many landmarks and rock formations look similar.

Dress Properly

In summer, layered clothing slows dehydration and minimizes exposure. Good hiking shoes, loose fitting natural-fiber clothing, a wide brimmed hat, sunglasses and sunscreen are a must. Desert temperatures can reach over 90° F. and drop below 50° F. in one day. Summer temperatures can reach 125° F. in some locations. In winter, temperatures can often drop below freezing. Bring extra warm clothing.

Flash Floods

What Causes Flash Floods?

When a violent thunderstorm breaks over the mountains and deserts of the southwest, runoff from the torrential rains cascades into the steep canyons in a matter of minutes. Walls of water sometimes 10 to 30 feet high swirl through the canyons and arroyos, picking up mud, boulders, trees and other debris. Plants, animals and sometimes people are caught, swept along and battered in the onrushing torrent of the flash flood. Flash floods can result from thunderstorms centered over mountains many miles away.

Flash Flood Seasons

Flash floods can occur in the southwestern United States at any time of the year, but the predominant seasons are Summer and early Fall. They can occur as the result of: Isolated thunderstorms -- late June to mid-September; Tropical storms or other general storms -- mostly August to October.

Thunderstorm Identification

A thunderstorm cloud, called cumulonimbus, is a large towering cloud, frequently spreading out on top into the shape of an anvil. It usually appears dark and threatening when viewed from below, but very bright and white when seen from the side at some distance.

Protect Your Life

  • Keep an eye and ear to the sky. Be alert for thunder or lightning in your vicinity and over nearby hills.
  • Listen frequently to weather reports on radio.
  • Camp on high ground but not on top of exposed peaks or ridges.
  • Avoid deep canyons and dry washes during stormy or threatening weather.

If heavy rains occur, move to high ground immediately (at least 30 to 40 feet above the canyon floor or bottom of the dry wash).

If you can't move your vehicle, abandon it. Take your survival gear with you. Don't attempt to return to your vehicle until the sky clears or officials give you the OK.

Don't try to drive through flooded areas. Abandon your car if water begins to rise over the road. Move to high ground immediately.

Follow instructions of local authorities. Leave immediately when warned. Many lives have been lost because people have not heeded warnings of police officers, park rangers and other officials.

Before you leave home, inform someone of your destination and when you expect to return. Police should be notified immediately if you do not return on time.

Take survival supplies for several days, including food, water, first aid equipment and necessary medication. In desert areas during hot weather, allow 3 to 4 gallons of water per day, per person.

For Flash Flood and Thunderstorm Information:

  • National Weather service
  • Local Police, Sheriff's Office, Highway Patrol
  • Automobile associations -- AAA, etc.
  • County Flood Control District Office
  • US Army Corps of Engineers Local Office
  • State Disaster Office
1 Comment(s) / Post Comment